Stone Plastic Composite (SPC) flooring is a rigid-core vinyl flooring choice known for its waterproofing, superior stability, and low maintenance. It is prepared from a blend of PVC and limestone that helps in preventing moisture and dents.
The genuine stone and wood designs, simple click-lock installation, and its enduring strength make SPC flooring a vital choice for anyone seeking a modern, sturdy, and long-lasting flooring solution. SPC flooring is suitable for commercial and residential use. Ezzy Manufacturing is a trusted name in SPC Flooring manufacturing and distribution in South Holland, Illinois.
This guide explains the SPC flooring installation process step by step, so just be ready to learn from the best.
Various Methods Of Installation
- Floating installation: In this type, planks and tiles are not attached to the subfloor. They float over it.
- Glue-Down Installation: Flooring is attached directly to the subfloor with the help of a bonding adhesive.
- Nail-Down Installation: In this type, flooring is nailed to a wooden subfloor.
- Staple-Down Installation: It is similar to nail-down installation, but uses staples instead of nails.
- Peel-and-Stick Installation: This type of installation uses pre-applied adhesive on the back that adheres to the subfloor.
Installation of SPC Flooring Planks
Setting up
Put supporting boards alongside the wall at each short joint of the first row. Leave almost a 6mm expansion gap always. For this purpose, use spacers between the wall and the planks or stationary objects.
1 – Placing Supporting Boards
Start the installation by inserting the supporting boards alongside the start wall. It helps keep your first row sturdy. You can remove the supporting boards later.
2 – Setting the First Plank
Put the first plank with the channel in front of you and tongue alongside the wall. Don’t forget to maintain a minimum 6mm expansion gap.
3 – Setting the Second Plank
Put the plank and softly tap the end with a rubber mallet to firmly drive it into the former plank until both are at the exact height. Rest assured that both planks are perfectly lined up.
Furthermore, you should line up the short edges of two joining planks correctly, and the rubber sledgehammer must connect to the plank directly above the short edges to allow the locking to be correctly aligned.
4 – Carrying on the Row
Put the planks endwise until you reach the opposing wall. Measure and cut the last plank as needed, leaving behind the exact space for expansion.
5 – Cutting the Planks
Take measurements of the top surface multiple times together with the same line with a utility knife and a ruler. Make the plank bend to break it neatly.
6 – Setting up the Second Row
Start the second row with the cut end from the previous row (minimum 30cm). The final joints of each attached row should now be within 20cm of each other.
7 – Set Up of the Second Row and Second Plank
Connect the elongated side of the plank with the former row and put it tightly on the short end of the former plank at an angle of 25-30°. Now, drop the plank and pat the long side with a rubber sledgehammer and a patter block to check that there aren’t any gaps.
After that, softly pat the short end until it locks firmly into the prior plank, and ensure that both are at the same altitude. In addition, verify that both planks are perfectly aligned.
Now use a small hammer or rubber mallet and a patting block to gently tap the planks into the click of the prior row to ensure they are firmly clicked together, and there is no gap.
8– Checking the Alignment
Remove the supporting boards from the first three rows, and slide the attached panels to direct the wall. Check the alignment by using a string line. If they are not correctly aligned, the starting wall has irregularities that cause bending during installation.
If this is the case, the starting row of planks may have to be measured again and re-trimmed to avoid any disproportion in the wall. We can do this without disassembling the starting rows.
9 – Setting up the Final Row
Line up a loose plank over the last row arranged. Put one more board on the top of that in a way that the tongue groove should be touching the wall.
Make a long line alongside the edge of the top board; it will line up with the one beneath. Now cut it along this line accommodating the required 6mm expansion gap.
10 – Drilling the Holes for the Pipes
Measure the required pipe diameter to accommodate, and drill a hole 12mm larger for expansion. Cut the board along its width where your pipe will rest, and cut a hole into two halves on each piece for wrapping around the pipe.
11 – Process of Door Molding
Place a board so the decorative side is facing down, beside the saw and door molding. Slide the plank under the molding when you are done.
Installation of SPC Floor in Wet Areas
- Use T moldings for separating wet zones from dry zones.
- Block the expansion gaps with a pliable PE foam backer rod.
- Use 100% silicone sealant (not acrylic) and seal the whole perimeter of the flooring.
Reminder: This SPC flooring cannot be warranted for installation in wet areas with built-in drains and running water, such as showers, pools, or wet rooms.
Finishing Process
Shield uncovered edges by installing wall transition strips or molding. Let a slight clearance between the planks and the moldings. Securing the SPC flooring to the subfloor is not needed. There should be 6-8mm gaps at transitions, between the adjoining surface and the planks.
Maintenance
- Use gentle-bristled brooms or vacuums.
- Use pH-neutral cleaners only. Avoid abrasives, bleach, or wax.
- Encourage the use of caster-friendly mats or felt pads underneath the furniture feet.
- Don’t use rubber mats.
Conclusion
When you follow the steps correctly, SPC flooring becomes long-lasting, flexible, and easy to install. Contractors and homeowners can achieve a durable, clean finish by taking accurate measurements, properly preparing the subfloor, and paying attention to click-lock and expansion requirements. During installation, a little care is all you need to ensure a pleasing, durable floor for years to come.
FAQs
Q.1 Can we install SPC flooring on an existing floor?
Yes, we can install SPC flooring over existing hard surfaces such as wood, ceramic tiles, or concrete, but the existing floor must be dry, level, clean, and securely attached.
Q.2 Which tools are needed for the SPC flooring installation?
SPC flooring installation requires basic tools, including a utility knife (for snapping and scoring planks), a measuring tape, spacers, a straight edge, a rubber sledgehammer, a patting block, and a pull bar.
Q.3 Can we install SPC flooring underneath the heavy fixtures and kitchen cabinets?
No, in general, it is not recommended to install SPC flooring after installing permanent fixtures such as islands, kitchen cabinets, or vanities.